Black-Owned, Bold Flavors: Island Vibes Jamaican Us Hungry
Black-owned and bringing the bold flavors of Jamaica to Albuquerque, Island Vibes serves up soulful spice, hearty portions, and delectable tastes from the Caribbean.
By Kristin Satterlee
The bright awnings and pictures of delicious-looking Jamaican food on Island Vibes’ windows draw in the hungry diner—but it’s once you get inside that the restaurant’s appeal really hits you. The walls are painted in vibrant shades of the Rastafarian colors: red, green, and gold. “Three Little Birds,” “One Love,” and other Bob Marley songs sound from the speakers; pictures of Marley and the phrase “every little thing is gonna be alright” adorn the walls.
When we heard that this Black-owned Jamaican spot opened in the little restaurant space directly across from the front doors of Talin Market on Central and Louisiana, we had to give it a try!
More than Vibes
After the vibrancy of the dining room, the next thing diners will surely notice is the friendly face at the counter. On my two visits, staffer Sharon Hall was enthusiastic and patient, explaining menu items like “bammy” and “festival” to this Jamaican-food newbie. In fact, her description of ackee and saltfish—the Jamaican national dish, made of salt cod and a fruit in the same family as the lychee—was so impassioned that I nearly changed my order. But Hall declared that the curry goat was also delicious and I should get that as intended. Ackee and saltfish next time, I promised her.
Hot Sauce on Standby
And she was right—the curry goat was wonderful, richly spiced with a bare tingle of heat. Hall said it would be more fiery in Jamaica, but Island Vibes was being careful not to make it too hot for American palates. (I refrained from saying, “this is New Mexico, we could take it.”) If you want it spicier, make sure to ask for a little covered plastic cup of hot sauce from the big stack behind the counter.
Jamaica Meets Burque
Served with all the generously sized entrees is a huge pile of delicious rice and peas (you won’t be leaving Island Vibes hungry), two slices of lightly fried plantain, and a kind of slaw-like salad that offers a nice burst of freshness.
We also tried the beef patty, which had a smooth and tasty filling in a golden crust. The jerk chicken, unfortunately, was a little disappointing, tasting more like barbecue than jerk: Its toned-down spicing was a misstep in this simple, usually tongue-tingling dish.
Oxtail’s Star Turn
The oxtail, however—which I overheard Hall saying is Island Vibes’ most popular dish, despite being the most expensive—is incredible: rich and savory, awash in its own thick, beefy gravy, and cooked to fall-off-the-bone tenderness. There are bones here, and in the goat as well: This is real meat, and real homestyle cooking.
A Deep Menu
There is so much more to try: coco bread, curried fish, jerk pork and shrimp, pastas, and quesadillas. And, of course, ackee and saltfish, as promised.